SV8/LA3ZA part 2

Below is a map showing contacts made from Pythagorio, Samos, early June 2022 using FT8. I tried to contact as many entities (~countries) as possible and got to a total of 55. The main band was 30 m, secondarily 20 m. 40 m and 17 m were also used. 

My quarter-wave antenna @ 30m, shown to the left in the image, performed well, despite the high noise level from the adjacent high-voltage line. The image is in the direction of Turkey (South-East), which is not visible at the time of the image.

SV8/LA3ZA

The polymath Pythagoras was born on
Samos and his birthplace village is now
called Pythagorio.

For a short while I’m operating from Samos, Greece with my old K2 at 10 W output. Noise level here next to a high voltage line is S9+ on all bands except 6m, so only digital modes work. The K2's noise blanker does a good job of removing some of the noise.

The antenna is a quarter-wave vertical for 30 m which also tunes several other bands. It’s on the balcony with a 7 m Sotabeam glass fiber mast, on the left-hand side of the street in the image below.

Tweaking the K2 for digital modes

My Elecraft K2 which I assembled as a kit in 2001, has mainly been a CW rig, but now I wanted to use it more for digital modes like FT8 also. That required some tweaking:

1. Wider bandwidth in SSB filter, so I took it from 2.4 to 2.6 kHz (KI6WX)
2. More sensitive VOX (G3RXQ)
3. RF-filtering on audio input (G3RXQ)

All of these are modifications to the tighly packed KSB2 board shown above so it took some patience to implement them. The bandwidth modification consists in replacing six ceramic capacitors that were sitting between the crystals. The VOX sensitivity modification is done by adding a pot which can be seen in the image as it sits outside the PCB on the left-hand side. I was lucky to find a mini 5k slider pot in my junk box which fitted in. Finally the RF-filtering was done by adding an inductor of 2.5 mH (right below the 5k pot) and a decoupling capacitor.

Cosmetic K2 Upgrade

My Elecraft K2 which is now more than 11 years old (serial #2198) has served me well, even earning me QRP DXCC (100 countries with 5 Watts) some years ago. It is still cosmetically in mint condition, except for that single item which sticks out like a sore thumb: The tuning knob.

This became very clear to me a couple of months ago when LA8OKA's and my K2 were displayed side by side at our stand at Oslo Maker Faire. His is less than two years old, serial #7224, and they were similar except for the scratches in the faceplate of my tuning knob. If I am allowed to generalize from my knob only, it seems as if the faceplate had poor quality paint and has been replaced by a better quality version over the years.

Anyway I ordered a new one and paid the price which at present is $30.37 plus shipping. The difference is really striking and I feel like I have a new K2 now, well worth the price! The K2 now serves as my second rig, and I think it has many years of good service still to come.

Related posts:

• Elecraft K2 do's and don'ts
• Five LEDs in buttons for the Elecraft K2
• My Elecraft K2 Modifications

Reliable auto-detect for keyer for Elecraft K2

The Elecraft K2 has an autodetect feature for the keyer input. When enabled, and when the DASH and the DOT lines are keyed at exactly the same instant in time, the K2 will detect that this is a hand key or an external keyer. I and several other K2 owners have however experienced erratic action of the autodetect with seemingly random keying.

My problem only occurred when keying was done from an external keyer. This could happen when keying from e.g. the WinKeyer.

Elecraft K2 do's and don'ts

In July 2011 Don Wilhelm, W3FPR, suggested that someone ought to write a comprehensive K2 Owner's Manual. This posting does not qualify as one, but at least it lists some things to watch out for regarding the Elecraft K2.

Minimal stress on the headphone jack

By all means avoid this situation!  

• Failing headphone jack: One of the most frequent complaints is the need to replace the headphone jack. Mine has lasted for ten years by being careful not to put undue stress on it. The best thing to do is to use an angled plug for the headphone (left-hand image). Many headphones have that or one can use an extension cord with an angled plug. In either case, this is the best way to minimize the mechanical stress. The worst one can do is surely to put a long mini-jack to jack adapter plug directly into the headphone jack (right-hand image). Replacing the headphone jack is not hard if you follow these instructions from W3FPR.

Five LEDs in buttons for the Elecraft K2

The Elecraft K2 is quite a small transceiver, made for portable use. Therefore it has fewer indicators of status than many other transceivers. There isn't really much space for this on the rather small frontpanel. But I felt for a long time felt that it should be possible to put additional LED indicators on the K2 but I wanted to avoid drilling holes in the front panel. Here is a method based on using small LEDs in the keycaps, see info from W3FPR/KR5L, as you can always get replacement key caps from Elecraft.

On W3FPR’s recommendation I have used 2 mm LEDs of types HLMP6300 (red), HLMP6400 (orange/yellow), and HLMP6500 (green). They can be bought from Digikey as well as from ELFA in Northern Europe. The first two of the five LEDs that I have added can be connected from the front panel board without additional wiring to other boards.

This YouTube video shows the three first LEDs, the Zero-Beat Indicator, the Split Indicator, and the Audio Filter On indicator:

K2 Fixed Level Audio Output

I started by making a very simple modification for a low level audio output with level that was independent of the AF pot setting.

The next step was to modify my front panel board by adding an audio output (mic plug) via a 25 x audio buffer and a zero-beat indicator which uses the same signal. The added circuit is built Manhattan-style on the upper right on the back of the front panel board, see image.

In this way three things are achieved:

1. The amplified audio output is independent of the AF pot setting.
2. The zero-beat indicator is also independent of the audio pot setting.
3. The ‘no-wire’ philosophy of K2 is maintained, as there are no wires that need to be run to any of the other boards.

The schematic of the audio buffer and the updated zero-beat indicator is here. Note that the zero-beat indicator’s component values have some minor changes from the original design, that gave a nicer behavior of the display.

I also have added an optional signal from the sidetone circuit on the K2's control board (requires a plugable strap between the boards). This gives a visual check of the zero-beat indicator when you transmit, and it is also nice for demo purposes as both the received and the transmitted CW are output and can be decoded using e.g. a PC.

My Elecraft K2 Modifications

When I got my license in 2001, I discovered the Elecraft K2 transceiver on the internet and noticed the excellent reviews that it had received. Its receiver outperforms most, if not all, of the commercial rigs on the market. It combines state-of-the art performance with the thrill of building something yourself. It is also important for me that the kit designers encourage experimentation and modification.

My basic K2 with no options, serial #2198, was assembled in August 2001. I have later added the options that are needed to make all the front panel labels meaningful: the KSB2 single sideband option, KAT2 automatic antenna tuner, KAF2 audio filter and real-time clock, KNB2 noise blanker, and K160 160m/2nd RX antenna.

Remapping of Keyer Speed Pot Range for the Elecraft K2

I am beginning to realize that I will never be able to exceed 20-25 wpm CW speed. The speed pot of the K2 however covers from 9 - 50 wpm with 30 wpm in the middle position. Thus the range which is useful to me is just a small fraction of this range.

In order to map 9 - 25 wpm to a larger range, one can add a series resistance to the pot, but this is cumbersome and requires cutting traces on the front panel bord. One could also change the speed pot to a logarithmic one, but this is also a rather involved operation. My solution was to emulate a logarithmic pot by soldering a 2.2 k resistor between the wiper and the CCW end of R1 on the Front Panel Board, the 5K Keyer Speed pot. In this way the pot stills covers the full range from 9-50 wpm, but 22 wpm is now in the middle position. See image for where the resistor is located. The left-hand wire can be found right under the G in "MIC CONFIG." (Note that the Manhattan-style circuit board to the upper right is a fixed level audio output and a zero-beat indicator).

If one had used an even smaller resistor than 2.2 k one could make the low speeds cover an even larger range of the pot, but I don't recommend this. In contrast to substituting a log pot, the added resistor makes the pot load the circuit more as the pot is turned in the clockwise direction, so that instead of 5 k load, it now presents 5 k in parallel with 2.2 k or about 1.4 k. I would not recommend loading the control circuit even more.

Elecraft K2: Using the KPA100 loudspeaker when the KPA100 is remoted

When the KPA100 power amplifier is external to the K2, the KPA100 loudspeaker is unused. I wanted to use it for other rigs that need a loudspeaker. The minijack connection on the back of the KPA100 can be used if its internal switch is shorted.

This can be done in a simple way by mounting a male header and plug in the unterminated "AF In" connector (J5). The lower pin on the header should be soldered to the warm speaker cable. See middle right in the image (press image to zoom in).

If the KPA100 is mounted in the K2, J5 is plugged into the K2 main board, and when it is used stand alone, J5 may be plugged into the new header. In this way the KPA100 loudspeaker connection is compatible with the original design when mounted in the K2, and its loudspeaker can be used for other rigs when the KPA100 is separate from the K2.

Be sure to measure the resistance at the end of a mini-jack cable plugged into the external speaker connector before trying the loudspeaker. It should measure about 4 ohms, and if it is less than 1 ohm you have made a short to ground, so check the header once more.

QRP Zero-beat Indicator for the Elecraft K2

This is a circuit that builds on KR5L’s zero-beat indicator circuit. He suggested trying a CMOS version of the 567 instead of the standard bipolar version, and here it is: the QRP version of his circuit. It draws only 0.9 mA at 5V compared to about 20 mA/8V for the original circuit.

Compared to the original circuit, C2 and C3 have been divided by about eight, and C1 has been divided by about two, give or take values found in my junk box.

Noise and Marker Generator

I have built the N0SS wideband noise generator. The noise generator was built in a small metal box in combination with a 1 MHz marker generator. The marker has been implemented using a simple packaged crystal oscillator.

The noise generator is used for setting up the K2 filters using a spectral analyzer program, and the marker generator is used for aligning old radios.

Trap for increasing 12 m image rejection of the K2

Several K2 owners have had interference from broadcast images. This image band overlaps with the 19 m broadcast band as found by subtracting twice the 4.915 MHz intermediate frequency. The 12 m band image rejection, before the trap modification, on my K2 was 48 dB (preamp on). It improves to 59 dB with the trap. The trap is simple to build on a small piece of board and can easily be fitted on top of the RF-board.